Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC

The Oltrepò's bread-and-butter red, made from Croatina, which here is called Bonarda. Usually lightly fizzy and dark purple, with blackberry, plum, violet and a pleasantly bitter, rustic tannin that the light sparkle softens. Some producers make a still, oak-aged version that tastes like a rougher Dolcetto. It's a trattoria wine for salami and risotto, drunk young and often cool.