The Italy Wine Project

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DOCStill huntingModerate

Colli di Luni (Liguria / Tuscany) DOC

Liguria's most important DOC and the source of its best Vermentino, on hills straddling the Tuscan border behind the marble quarries of Carrara. Vermentino here is fuller than the Sardinian version, with ripe pear, white peach, wild fennel, sage and a saline, faintly bitter finish, and the best (Ottaviano Lambruschi, Lunae Bosoni, Giacomelli) have enough texture to age three or four years. The reds, Sangiovese-based with local grapes, are light and herbal and stay mostly at home. This is the DOC to taste for the argument that Vermentino is a serious grape.

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Bottles I'm chasing

ProducerWinePriceBuy
Ottaviano Lambruschi
Colli di Luni Vermentino Costa Marina
The cru that made the zone's reputation, sage, peach and a long saline finish; ages well.
$24 to $30Wine-Searcher
Lunae Bosoni
Colli di Luni Vermentino Etichetta Grigia
The largest estate's standard Vermentino, ripe pear and fennel, easier to find than Lambruschi.
$20 to $25Wine-Searcher
Lunae Bosoni
Colli di Luni Vermentino Etichetta Nera
The old-vine selection, denser and more honeyed with a chalky grip; the serious bottle.
$28 to $35Wine-Searcher