The Italy Wine Project

Regions / Piedmont

DOCGStill huntingEasy

Gattinara DOCG

The most famous of the Alto Piemonte Nebbiolos, grown on volcanic porphyry rather than Langhe marl, which gives a different fingerprint: lighter body, higher acid, iron and blood-orange notes alongside dried cherry, rose and tar. Tannins are fine rather than massive, and the wines age well for 20 years. It was Piedmont's most prized red in the 19th century before Barolo took over. Travaglini's odd-shaped bottle is the everyday face; Antoniolo and Nervi (now owned by Roberto Conterno) are the serious ones.

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Bottles I'm chasing

ProducerWinePriceBuy
Travaglini
Gattinara
The widely available introduction (Taub), dried cherry, tar and orange peel in a curved bottle designed to trap sediment.
$30 to $40Wine-Searcher
Antoniolo
Gattinara
Family estate whose crus (Osso San Grato, San Francesco) are the appellation's best; the base bottling is elegant, floral and mineral.
$40 to $55Wine-Searcher
Nervi Conterno
Gattinara
Roberto Conterno of Giacomo Conterno bought Nervi in 2018; polished, precise Nebbiolo with iron and rose, priced accordingly.
$60 to $80Wine-Searcher