Greco di Tufo DOCG

The bigger, more muscular sibling of Fiano di Avellino, from vines above old sulfur mines. Greco gives a full-bodied white with high acidity and real grip: ripe peach, quince, bitter almond, lemon peel and a sulfurous, smoky mineral streak, with a broad, almost tannic texture and a long, saline finish. Youthful examples can taste hard and closed; the best open up after three to five years into something like a southern Chablis with more weight. It's a fish-stew and roast-pork white rather than an aperitif.