Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC

The middle child of the Modena Lambruscos, named for its small, salami-shaped bunches. It sits between Sorbara's pale acidity and Grasparossa's dark tannin: ruby to purple, with raspberry, red plum, a floral note and a soft, rounded fizz. It's the most planted Lambrusco in the province and the workhorse of the big cooperatives, so most of it is inexpensive and slightly sweet, but the dry estate versions from Cleto Chiarli and Cantina di Carpi e Sorbara are worth a look.