Lugana (Lombardy / Veneto) DOC

Turbiana, genetically the same as Verdicchio, grown on heavy white clay at the bottom of the lake, gives one of northern Italy's best-value ageworthy whites. Young Lugana is pale, medium bodied and citrusy with white peach, almond and a chalky, saline finish; Superiore and Riserva, with a year or two of lees or bottle age, turn richer and more honeyed with a smoky, flinty note and drink well at ten years. Cà dei Frati, Zenato, Ottella and Le Morette are the reference houses, and the top cuvées from Cà dei Frati are serious wines. It's the white to buy for people who think Italian whites are simple.