Malvasia di Bosa DOC

A tiny appellation on the west coast producing one of Italy's great oxidative whites. The traditional dry riserva ages for years in partly filled chestnut barrels under a flor like film, emerging amber, with roasted almond, dried apricot, chamomile, sea salt and a bone dry, bitter finish that recalls fino or amontillado without fortification. Sweet and passito versions are also made. Giovanni Battista Columbu rescued the style and it remains a handful of producers working a few dozen hectares.