Rosso Cònero DOC

The everyday red of the Ancona coast, Montepulciano grown on limestone with the Adriatic in view. Compared with its Abruzzo cousin it's a little brighter and more floral: black cherry, plum, violet, dried oregano and a savory, slightly salty edge, with medium-plus tannin and moderate acidity. Basic bottlings are fruity and ready at two or three years; the better single-vineyard versions from Moroder, Le Terrazze and Garofoli have real depth. The riserva tier was split off into Conero DOCG in 2004, so this DOC is the fresher, cheaper side.