Valdadige Terradeiforti (Trentino / Veneto) DOC

A narrow stretch of the Adige gorge, named for the Austrian forts that guard it, and home to two native reds found nowhere else: Enantio, a wild-looking vine with jagged leaves that gives dark, tannic, peppery wine with blackberry and iron, and Casetta, softer, with sour cherry and dried herb. Some Enantio vines are ungrafted and over a century old, and the riservas from Albino Armani and Roeno are the reason to seek this DOC out. The Pinot Grigio from the same slopes is a cut above valley-floor Valdadige, with more grip and mineral. A small, real appellation.